Hydromys chrysogaster
My university days –
four-and-a-half years of them – were spent on the edge of water, more or
less. The spacious grounds of the Australian National
University are split by a trickle of
polluted water called Sullivans
Creek; whether by
accident or design, which side of the creek you studied on marked you out, in
those days at least, as an Arts student or a Science student. The creek was disdained by all on campus
except those dedicated few who committed themselves to cleaning it up; where
the creek ran past the Chemistry Department it wasn’t too much of a stretch to
watch the erratic behaviour of a Magpie-lark (Grallina cyanoleuca) on the water’s edge and speculate about
mercury poisoning; lead poisoning; some chemical taint in the poor creature’s
brain or central nervous system. One of
my biology tutors once told us wide-eyed undergraduates huddled ’round a Bunsen
burner horror stories about the mutated micro-organisms found in the creek’s
meagre flow.
Scarcely less polluted than Sullivans Creek, but much more celebrated, was the
other body of water which partly defined my university career: Lake Burley
Griffin. The Australian
National University
sits on the northern edge of the lake; on the southern shore, in the old Canberra suburb of
Yarralumla, is my parents’ house. I
lived with my parents for the entire course of my degree – who would want to
move out of free lodging in the most beautiful suburb in Canberra? – and to get from house to
university or from university to house was a twenty-minute bike-ride along shores
of the lake. That’s how long it took via
the eastern route, anyway, crossing Commonwealth Avenue Bridge, the greater of
two concrete spans that link Canberra’s Southside to its Northside, the
Parliamentary Triangle to Civic (or, at the north end of King’s Avenue Bridge,
the other of the pair, the Parliamentary Triangle to the suburb of Campbell,
the Department of Defence, and the infamous “Bunny Ears”, an enormous statue of
a Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus
leucocephalus) given to
Canberra as a gift by the USA and scorned by generations of Canberrans as a
symbol of American hubris and arrogance.
At least the Americans got the building material right: concrete, the
material of choice for civic monuments and grand edifices in Canberra).
It wasn’t unknown for me to ride
home the other way, around Lake Burley Griffin’s western basin, if I wasn’t in
a hurry: this route takes at least twice as long as the eastern route, though
it’s a much more beautiful ride – at least, it was until the Canberra bushfires
of 2003 destroyed the pine plantation that protected bike path from the sight
of the adjacent Tuggeranong Parkway.
Those pines made descending the numerous corners of that section of the
path into a test of bike handling skills and of nerve: sharp bends and a thick
carpet of fallen pine needles made for an uncertain surface on which to control
the precarious balance of a bicycle. Now
the pine needles are gone, and the path meanders through a landscape as bare
and unwelcoming as the scar from any burn.
The hill is still there, though,
and at the bottom of that brief descent the bike path crosses over Scrivener
Dam. Charles Scrivener was the
Surveyor-General of New South Wales and later
the first Director of Commonwealth Lands and Surveys; his surveys and maps of
the Canberra
region were used as the basis of the competition to design the city. The foundations (concrete, of course) of the
hut from which in 1908 he surveyed the land that became Canberra can be found
in an inconspicuous location alongside another bike path and next to a picnic
table below State Circle, one of the busiest (a relative term) roads in
Canberra. It’s the oldest federal
building in Australia’s
national capital.
The dam that bares Charles Scrivener’s
name is no less significant: when it was placed across the Molonglo River
in 1963 it created Lake Burley Griffin – though the actual filling of the Lake
took a while, as Canberra
was at the time in the middle of a prolonged drought. The creation of the Lake was perhaps Canberra’s greatest acknowledgement of Walter Burley
Griffin’s original design for the city, the design that won the competition
before being half-abandoned – though in typical fashion Canberra’s
patriarchs fudged the compliment by misnaming the Lake: Walter Burley Griffin
did not have two surnames; “Griffin”
was his middle name.
Yes, Lake Burley Griffin was
designed, planned, and forced upon the landscape. It is an entirely human creation (save for
the water itself). Sometimes people
refer to it as an “artificial” lake, but that’s not accurate: the Lake is
subject to blooms of blue-green algae; it gets sick when the storm-water drains
that feed into it deliver pollutants from all over the city after a heavy
downpour; it houses untold numbers of Common Carp (Cyprinus carpio) and
Redfin Perch (Perca fluviatilis) and
Australian Pelicans (Pelecanus
conspicillatus) and Black Swans (Cygnus atratus) and Pacific Black Ducks (Anas superciliosa); the reed beds
along its banks shake in spring and summer with the activities of the aptly
named Clamorous Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus stentoreus), which binds its delicate nest high
in the reeds, just high enough to be out of reach; just low enough to be out of
sight. Lake Burley Griffin is as real as
a body of water can be.
One day, on a sun-speckled whim,
I decided to take a minor detour on my ride home along the eastern route: I
turned my bike off the path and rode around Lennox
Gardens, a small park across the road
from the back of the Hyatt Hotel, a low and refined building first opened in
1924, when Canberra
was newly born. The sun played off the
small waves of Lake Burley Griffin and I was seduced into riding along the very
edge of the water, atop a stone retaining wall about a metre high. The water beneath was shallow and filled with
large rocks; to lose balance and fall into it would have been disastrous. Yet there’s something about water that the
eye can’t look away from.
I rode around the edge of the
park often after that, every few days, if the weather was good and my
university day had finished early, and then one day I saw it: a splash of
movement in the water, a flash of bubbles clinging to dense fur like sequins in
a coat; a Water-rat. I’d seen photos of
Water-rats before so I knew the animal instantly from the long white tip of its
tail; and from its ease in the water, as it saw me and dived into a pipe. I glimpsed its webbed feet before it
disappeared.
I’d once, years before, thought
I’d caught a glimpse of a Water-rat hunched amidst the willow roots near the
bay by the Water Police station just down the road from my parents’ house; but
it had been dusk then, and the world had been made of silhouettes, and I’d
never been quite sure if what I’d seen had been animal or vegetable, just
another tree root. This time, though,
there was no mistaking it: in the bright light of day, just below my feet. The trip around Lennox Gardens
suddenly became a daily necessity, something to look forward to, and I saw the
Water-rat often two or three times a week.
It never got used to me, it
always fled the instant it saw me. I
never got used to it, either: I always stopped and gaped and then glowed for
the rest of the ride home. That ride
took me past many wonderful sights, over the years: on some winter mornings the
lake disappeared completely behind a thick fog, and Ducks (Anatidae) and Moorhens (Gallinula)
quacked and yelped from behind the white curtain; one summer a group of
White-winged Trillers (Lalage tricolor) took up holiday residence in a
stand of Eucalypts below Stirling Ridge.
Nothing, though, was ever as good as that Water-rat.
Rodents are as unloved in Australia as
they are anywhere else in the world, and many Australians aren’t aware of the
fact that this continent actually boasts numerous species of native
rodents. The Water-rat – recently
renamed Rakali, both to honour Australia’s
indigenous people and to distinguish it from better-known European and American
species – is surely the grandest: weighing sometimes more than a kilogram, and
sporting handsome chestnut-brown fur. In
a country whose wildlife, mammals in particular, is so relentlessly, dazzlingly
sui generis, it’s a peculiar comfort
to know that there is at least one group of prominent animals that we share
with the world.
I graduated from university in
2003; I haven’t seen a Water-rat since.
Until just last week: I started a new job three weeks ago, and to
welcome me and another newcomer to the office last Friday my colleagues and I set
the afternoon aside and went to have lunch together. The venue chosen was a pub in an old
boathouse on the banks of the Yarra
River. I was chatting to my new co-workers, and more
often listening to them chat to each-other, when suddenly one of them – my boss,
in fact – pointed to the water and asked “What’s that?” Everyone else at my table had their backs to
the water, and we couldn’t see what he was talking about. There were Ducks there; leaves, too, and plenty
of rubbish. There was nothing of
note. But – “There it is again!” my boss
said, getting more excited, and more confused.
We all assumed he was talking about a fish, until suddenly the creature
surface. Unmistakeable. A round head, held determinedly above the
water. Whiskers. A long tail.
A Water-rat; a Rakali.
It disappeared beneath the
wharf. We returned to our
conversation. I’d barely thought about
Water-rats in nearly ten years. The
empty chip-packets kept bobbing on the Yarra; on the opposite bank from the pub
a sign advertised the services of a water taxi to the nearby Melbourne Cricket
Ground. The Yarra has as turbulent a
history as any other body of water when it comes to human use and abuse, yet
still it persists. Birds swim on it;
water-rats swim in it. There is no such thing as artificial water.
Image sourced from http://en.wikipedia.org